Irun to Donostia
IRUN
Located in the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country of Spain, Irun is a charming town with a rich history and vibrant culture. It sits on the border with France, making it an important hub for trade and transportation.
Mount Jaizkibel,
Irun boasts a mix of architectural styles, from medieval structures to modern buildings, reflecting its diverse past. Visitors can explore landmarks such as the Church of Santa María del Juncal and the Oiasso Roman Museum, which showcases artifacts from the region's ancient past.
As I arrived at the frontier of France in Spain to begin the Camino del Norte, the anticipation bubbled within me. After a bumpy overnight bus journey from Barcelona, I found myself in Irun at the crack of dawn, eager to kickstart my pilgrimage. However, the quaint town had its own rhythm, and I had to bide my time until the cafes and bakeries opened their doors, tempting me with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and warm pastries.
Starting in Irun by bike for the first time, then coming here alone, and then, with my sister Tess and her friend Sylvia. It was during this solitary trek that I crossed paths with Juanjo, a quintessential Basque figure – towering in stature with a rugged, alpinist's demeanor. As we walked the trail, Juanjo shared his insights, including his candid opinions about American travelers, their perceived arrogance contrasting with his own grounded humility.
Our path led us to the Chapel of Santiagotxo, a serene sanctuary nestled amidst the verdant landscape. From there, Juanjo guided me towards the formidable Mt. Jaizkibel, its summit shrouded in mist. It was atop this lofty peak that Juanjo unveiled tales of the region's whaling history. He recounted how, during the height of the whaling era, intrepid hunters would signal each other with rhythmic drumming, orchestrating a synchronized pursuit of the majestic whales that roamed the vast expanse of the ocean.
Whaling Industry in Irun. During the 16th to 18th centuries, Irun, like many coastal towns in the Basque Country, was involved in the whaling industry.
Basque Whaling Tradition: The Basque people were among the pioneers of commercial whaling in Europe. They developed sophisticated techniques for hunting and processing whales, which allowed them to dominate the industry during this period.
Strategic Location: Irun's location on the Bay of Biscay made it an ideal base for whaling expeditions. Whalers from Irun and nearby towns would venture into the Atlantic Ocean in search of whales, particularly the valuable right whale species.
Whaling Ships: Whaling ships from Irun were typically smaller vessels known as "chalupas" or "txalupas." These ships were agile and maneuverable, allowing whalers to navigate the often treacherous waters of the Atlantic.
Processing Stations: After successfully hunting whales, the whaling ships would return to Irun, where the captured whales were processed. Processing stations, known as "txaletas," were set up along the coast to render the whale blubber into oil, which was a valuable commodity used for lighting, lubrication, and other purposes.
Economic Importance: The whaling industry played a significant role in the economy of Irun and the surrounding region during this period. It provided employment for many residents and contributed to the town's prosperity.
Decline: The whaling industry in Irun and the Basque Country began to decline in the 19th century due to various factors, including overexploitation of whale populations, changes in technology, and the rise of alternative energy sources such as petroleum. By the early 20th century, commercial whaling in the region had largely ceased.
Cultural Legacy: Despite the end of commercial whaling, the tradition remains an important part of the cultural heritage of Irun and the Basque Country. Today, efforts are underway to preserve and promote the history of whaling through museums, exhibitions, and cultural events.
After a good walk on the plateau of Jaizebel and not much shade around, we got caught with the heat of the summer season and we were desperate to find a shade a cold drink and luckily we found a place that was selling drinks and a tent to get a shade. It is helpful to have an umbrella no matter where you go. Later on, we descended to Pasaio Donibane.
Pasaio Donibane
As I walked down, I could hear two guys talking from afar and I walked up to them and engaged in a lively conversation. I couldn't resist sharing with them the enchanting appeal of Albergue Santa Ana, renowned for its breathtaking view of the bay. With enthusiasm, I guided them along the left pathway, leading the way towards this promising refuge. The idea of spending the night there filled us with eager anticipation, particularly as we observed other pilgrims gradually arriving. As time passed, the entrance area began to fill up, further heightening our anticipation for what lay ahead.
Our initial excitement waned as the caretaker of the albergue delicately broached the notion of yielding our spots to accommodate late-arriving pilgrims in dire need of shelter. An introspective hush enveloped us, each individual wrestling with the weight of the decision before us. Personally, I found myself hesitating, lingering in hopeful anticipation of someone else stepping forward. The prospect of this moment slipping away, perhaps not to return for years, stirred within me a poignant longing. I couldn't shake the image of Victor Hugo, who once sought solace in these very surroundings during the summer months, and the desire to immerse myself in that same timeless ambiance.
Eventually, one of my companions, driven by a selfless impulse, bravely volunteered to forfeit his place. In a show of unwavering solidarity, we all rallied behind him, united in our shared commitment to hospitality and camaraderie. Another pilgrim from Madrid, inspired by the act of generosity, joined us in our decision to relinquish our spots. .
Leaving the albergue, we took the boat to cross the bay and continued on your journey. We had lunch together and while walking, we felt a profound satisfaction, knowing that our gesture had opened the door for fellow pilgrims in search of respite. In my mind, I will come back someday and get a chance to stay. Perhaps I will come back late and see if somebody left a room for me.
Victor Hugo, the renowned French writer, indeed spent time in Pasaio Donibane (Pasajes San Juan), which is a picturesque fishing village located in the Basque Country of Spain. In fact, Hugo visited the village in 1843 during his exile from France.
During his stay, Victor Hugo found inspiration in the rugged beauty of the Basque coastline and the charming atmosphere of Pasaio Donibane. It is said that his experiences in the village influenced his writing, particularly his descriptions of the sea and coastal life.
Hugo's visit to Pasaio Donibane is commemorated today by a plaque on the house where he stayed, known as the "Casa de Victor Hugo" (Victor Hugo House). This historic building serves as a testament to the enduring connection between the famous writer and the idyllic village that captured his imagination.