Baden Baden
“Life is not where we live, but in what direction we move.”
View from the Old Castle
Life’s journey often leads us to unexpected places. My visit to Baden-Baden came about through an unlikely connection—Xenia, a college student who became my tennis partner during the uncertain days of the pandemic in Cádiz. Our friendship grew through the time we spent playing together. As summer approached, we parted ways, but she and her friend Zina, who were on a road trip through Spain, made a stop in Maro. I was staying on a farm right next to the beach and it was wonderful to see them before heading back to Germany. We had lunch together and spent a few hours kayaking.
As the following year approached, I toyed with the idea of visiting them. Encouraged by their enthusiasm, the plan took shape, and we made it happen.
I spent a night in Stuttgart, where Xenia and Zina picked me up. Before heading to Baden-Baden, Zina gave us a tour of the city. Then, we made our way to Baden-Baden, stopping first at Zina’s place to pick up her things for the week before setting off.
Baden-Baden is a picturesque spa town in southwestern Germany, nestled in the Black Forest. Renowned for its thermal baths, it has been a retreat for relaxation and luxury since Roman times. The town boasts elegant Belle Époque architecture, lush parks like Lichtentaler Allee, and a world-famous casino that inspired Dostoevsky’s The Gambler. Visitors can indulge in the soothing waters of the Caracalla Spa or the historic Friedrichsbad, enjoy cultural experiences at the Festspielhaus, or explore nearby vineyards. With its blend of wellness, history, and natural beauty, Baden-Baden remains a timeless destination for travelers seeking rejuvenation.
It is a big plus to know somebody in a place you are visiting. On this visit, Xenia and Zina planned to do something with me every day. They didn’t leave me alone, although I would be just fine if they had left me some free time for myself, but I did have an afternoon free time on those days.
After a few days here, I really liked where I was staying. They came by with their bicycles and sometimes with a bus. I noticed that you don’t have to pay the city bus to head out and in the city. I also used Xenia’s bike one day heading back to her apartment.
We also took a day trip to Strasbourg and another trip to a lake where we went swimming.
They also scheduled a visit to the Casino wherein we all had to dress up to get in. We were also joined by their friend. It was here that Dostoevsky that inspired to write — The Gambler.
The Casino of Baden-Baden, nestled within the opulent Kurhaus, is one of the world’s most elegant and historic gambling establishments. Often referred to as the "most beautiful casino in the world," it exudes grandeur with its lavish interiors inspired by French palaces, featuring glittering chandeliers, intricate gold leaf, and plush red carpets. Opened in 1824, it has long been a playground for European aristocracy, intellectuals, and artists, including luminaries like Dostoevsky and Marlene Dietrich. Today, the casino continues to blend old-world sophistication with modern gaming, offering a unique experience for visitors, while its cultural significance and architectural splendor make it a centerpiece of Baden-Baden’s allure.
We also went hiking twice in one day. The Schwarzwaldhochstraße (Black Forest High Road) is one of the most famous hiking areas in the Black Forest, offering a stunning network of trails with breathtaking views. Spanning from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt, this scenic route provides access to iconic hiking destinations such as the Mummelsee, a picturesque glacial lake surrounded by lush forests, and the Hornisgrinde, the highest peak in the northern Black Forest. Another renowned area is the Triberg Waterfalls, Germany's highest waterfalls, surrounded by enchanting forest trails. These locations showcase the Black Forest's diverse beauty, from dense woodlands and serene lakes to panoramic mountain vistas, making it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts.
Travel Notes:
Definitely want to come back here again soon. It will definitely be a bike tour coming from Dijon heading to Constance Lake and then, here. In order to do that, I’ll coordinate it with Xenia. At this time, I’ll be focusing on vineyards.
Baden-Baden is part of the Baden wine region, Germany’s southernmost and warmest wine region. The area is famous for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Riesling, along with Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc). The best vineyards around Baden-Baden are mostly in the Ortenau district, known for its excellent Riesling.
The Baden Wine Route (Badische Weinstraße) is an excellent choice for a bike tour, especially in the Ortenau district near Baden-Baden. The route is scenic, passing through rolling vineyards, charming wine villages, and historic wineries, with plenty of opportunities for wine tastings, cultural stops, and beautiful nature views.
Why is this a great bike route?
✅ Mild Climate – Baden is Germany’s warmest wine region, making for comfortable cycling conditions.
✅ Stunning Scenery – Vineyards, the Black Forest, and the Rhine Valley offer breathtaking landscapes.
✅ Charming Wine Villages – Explore towns like Neuweier, Sasbachwalden, and Durbach, all known for top-tier wines.
✅ Well-Connected Cycling Routes – The area has excellent bike-friendly roads and trails, including vineyard paths and dedicated cycling lanes.
✅ Culinary Stops – Enjoy wine tastings paired with Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizza) and regional dishes.
Suggested Baden-Baden Wine Bike Route (~50 km)
🚴♂️ Start: Baden-Baden
Explore the spa town, then cycle towards the vineyards.
🚴♂️ Stop 1: Schloss Neuweier (7 km)
A must-visit castle winery with great Rieslings and Pinot Noirs.
🚴♂️ Stop 2: Weingut Nägelsförst (10 km)
A hilltop winery with stunning views over the Rhine Valley.
🚴♂️ Stop 3: Affentaler Winzer eG (17 km)
Famous for its monkey-label Riesling and excellent Pinot Noirs.
🚴♂️ Stop 4: Durbach (30 km)
One of the most beautiful wine villages in Baden! Visit Weingut Andreas Laible or Weingut Schloss Staufenberg for tastings.
🚴♂️ Stop 5: Return to Baden-Baden (20 km, or stay overnight in Durbach)
Alternative: Ortenau Wine Route (Longer)
For a more challenging ride, extend towards Oberkirch and Gengenbach, which have more Pinot Noir-focused wineries and stunning landscapes.
Here’s a custom Baden-Baden Wine Bike Tour that balances scenic cycling, great wine, and cultural stops. This route covers ~50-60 km, with options to extend or shorten based on your pace and preferences.
🚴♂️ Baden-Baden Wine & Vineyard Bike Tour (50-60 km)
📍 Start: Baden-Baden
Explore the Kurhaus, Lichtentaler Allee, and Roman bath ruins before setting off.
Grab a light breakfast at Café König (famous for Black Forest cake).
🚴♂️ Stop 1: Schloss Neuweier (7 km)
⏳ Stay: 45 min
A historic castle winery with exceptional Rieslings and Pinot Noir.
Enjoy a short vineyard walk and wine tasting.
Optional: Visit the vineyard terraces for great views.
🚴♂️ Stop 2: Weingut Nägelsförst (10 km, total 17 km)
⏳ Stay: 45 min
One of the highest-elevation wineries, offering breathtaking Rhine Valley views.
Taste Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and their signature Riesling.
Rest at their outdoor terrace with wine and snacks.
🚴♂️ Stop 3: Affentaler Winzer eG (8 km, total 25 km)
⏳ Stay: 30-45 min
Famous for their “monkey-label” Riesling and full-bodied Pinot Noir.
Visit their modern wine shop for a casual tasting.
🚴♂️ Lunch Stop: Sasbachwalden (6 km, total 31 km)
⏳ Stay: 1 hour
A charming wine village with half-timbered houses and great local food.
Lunch Recommendation:
Winzerstube zum Straubenhans (local wine & Flammkuchen)
Alde Gott Winzer Bistro (regional Baden cuisine)
🚴♂️ Stop 4: Durbach (12 km, total 43 km)
⏳ Stay: 1 hour
One of Baden’s most picturesque wine towns!
Visit Weingut Schloss Staufenberg, a hilltop castle with panoramic vineyard views and a fantastic wine selection.
Try their Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).
🚴♂️ Option 1: Return to Baden-Baden (15 km, total ~58 km)
Cycle back through the vineyards at a relaxed pace.
🚴♂️ Option 2: Stay Overnight in Durbach
Stay at Hotel Ritter Durbach (luxury wine hotel & spa).
Enjoy a relaxed evening with local wines and Black Forest cuisine.
🔹 Extra Option for a Longer Ride (~75 km)
Extend towards Oberkirch & Gengenbach for more Pinot Noir wineries and a medieval old town experience.
🚴 Tips for Your Wine Bike Tour
✅ Bike Type: Road bikes or e-bikes recommended (some hilly sections).
✅ Best Season: Spring to autumn (April-October) for perfect weather.
✅ Booking: Some wineries require reservations, especially for groups.
✅ Pacing: 3-4 wineries max per day to enjoy wine without rushing.
✅ Alternative Transport: Trains connect Ortenau towns if you want a break from cycling.