Saumur
Vélo Notes
woke up early and started packing—folding my tent and getting my gear ready to hit the road. Camping Port La Vallée had no breakfast facilities, just bathrooms and toilets. As I waited for the campsite manager, I watched a cyclist pedal away. Once I left the gate, I rode into town, found a boulangerie, bought some pastries, and set off.
I decided to continue along the other side of the Loire River, so I crossed the bridge again and rode alone.
Relying too much on Google Maps led me off course on my way to Saumur. The app took me through remote fields, looped me in circles, and eventually led me to a dead end. I blamed myself for depending on it too much. Sometimes, common sense and natural orientation work better. Plus, constantly checking a screen makes you miss the scenery. Next time, I’ll review the map beforehand and rely more on instinct. It might even help to sketch it on paper as a backup. We’ve become too dependent on navigation apps. Frustrating as it was, I reminded myself that getting lost was part of the adventure.
As I neared Saumur, heavy rain poured down. I pedaled as fast as I could, only to realize later that I’d lost my summer jacket strapped to my rack. When I arrived in Saumur, drenched and shivering, I had no place to stay. It’s a medium-sized city, and I needed shelter fast. Fortunately, I managed to book a private room. The moment I checked in, I stripped off my wet clothes and took a hot shower. I wondered how my gear would dry by morning—but for now, I didn’t care. I had leftover food and a cozy living space to myself.
Later, I heard music and saw people passing by outside. A festival was happening nearby, and I was tempted to go check it out. But exhaustion won, and I chose to enjoy the warmth of my room for the night.
A Gem of the Loire Valley
Nestled in the heart of the Loire Valley, Saumur is a town that epitomizes the rich historical and cultural tapestry of France. Known for its stunning medieval architecture, prestigious equestrian traditions, and world-renowned wine production, Saumur is a place where the past and present harmoniously converge. This essay explores the multifaceted allure of Saumur, delving into its historical significance, cultural offerings, and natural beauty, all of which make it a remarkable destination in western France.
Historical Significance
The history of Saumur is deeply intertwined with that of France, dating back to its early origins in the 10th century. The most iconic symbol of this historical legacy is the Château de Saumur, a magnificent castle that has stood sentinel over the town for centuries. Originally constructed as a fortress, the château has been a royal residence, a prison, and now, a museum. Its commanding position on a hill overlooking the Loire River not only offered strategic military advantages but also contributed to the breathtaking views that characterize the town today.
Saumur’s military heritage extends beyond its château. The town is home to the École de Cavalerie, a prestigious cavalry school that has earned Saumur the nickname "City of the Horse." This institution has played a significant role in French military history, training elite cavalrymen who have served in numerous campaigns. During World War II, Saumur was the site of fierce resistance against the German advance, with the town’s bridge over the Loire River serving as a crucial point of defense. The bravery displayed during the Battle of Saumur in 1940 is a testament to the town’s enduring spirit and resilience.
Cultural Riches
Saumur is not only a town of historical importance but also a hub of cultural activity. The town’s architectural landscape is dotted with impressive churches, such as the Romanesque Église Saint-Pierre and the Gothic Église Saint-Nicolas, which stand as testaments to the town’s religious and artistic heritage. These structures are not just places of worship but also repositories of art and history, showcasing intricate stonework and stained glass that date back centuries.
One of Saumur’s most distinguished cultural institutions is the Cadre Noir, the French National Riding School. This prestigious equestrian school is renowned for its classical dressage performances, which draw visitors from around the world. The Cadre Noir embodies the town’s deep connection to the equestrian arts, and its performances are a celebration of the elegance, discipline, and tradition that define this unique aspect of French culture.
Museums in Saumur further enrich the town’s cultural landscape. The Musée des Blindés, or Tank Museum, houses one of the largest collections of armored vehicles in the world, offering insights into the evolution of military technology. In contrast, the Musée du Champignon provides a glimpse into the region’s agricultural traditions, focusing on the cultivation of mushrooms, a local specialty. Together, these museums reflect the diversity of Saumur’s cultural offerings, catering to a wide range of interests.
Natural Beauty and Gastronomy
The natural beauty of Saumur is inextricably linked to the Loire River, which flows gently through the town, providing a picturesque backdrop to its historic architecture. The Loire Valley, often referred to as the "Garden of France," is a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated for its landscapes, vineyards, and castles. Saumur, with its lush surroundings and scenic riverbanks, is a quintessential part of this heritage.
The vineyards surrounding Saumur are among the most prestigious in France, producing a variety of wines that have earned international acclaim. Saumur Brut, a sparkling wine made using the traditional method, is particularly celebrated, rivaling even the famous wines of Champagne. The town’s vineyards also produce Saumur-Champigny, a rich red wine that is a favorite among connoisseurs. Wine tasting in Saumur is not just a culinary experience but a journey through the region’s history and terroir.
Gastronomy in Saumur is a reflection of the region’s agricultural abundance. Local cuisine is characterized by fresh, seasonal ingredients, with dishes often featuring mushrooms, goat cheese, and, of course, wine. The town’s restaurants offer a delightful blend of traditional French cuisine and local specialties, making Saumur a destination for food lovers as well.
Conclusion
Saumur is a town that captivates the imagination with its blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the towering heights of its château to the tranquil flow of the Loire River, Saumur offers a rich tapestry of experiences that reflect the essence of the Loire Valley. Its historical significance, cultural richness, and gastronomic delights make Saumur not just a place to visit, but a place to experience and savor. In Saumur, the past is not a distant memory but a living presence, inviting visitors to explore, learn, and immerse themselves in the unique charm of this remarkable town.
Right before arriving to Saumur, it rained heavily again. Late afternoon thunderstorms had been a pattern for the first three days. I pedaled like a madman to get to Saumur and finally got there without a place to stay. I was shivering and fumbling my mobile phone to search a place to stay. After sometime, I got a message and a place to stay. It was a desperate moment, because I was soaked and needed a place to dry myself.
I was exhausted when I got to my place. I took a shower right away and hanged my clothes to dry. I noticed that there were people flocking the center for festivities. I wanted to check it out, but I was too tired. It was best to stay foot and enjoy the warmth of a place.
Saumur (So-mur) is a charming town located in the Loire Valley of western France, known for its rich history, beautiful architecture, and wine production. Here’s an overview of what makes Saumur special:
Location
Saumur is situated in the Maine-et-Loire department, part of the Pays de la Loire region. It lies along the Loire River, which adds to its scenic beauty and strategic historical importance.
Historical Significance
Château de Saumur: The most iconic landmark in Saumur is its medieval château, perched on a hill overlooking the town and the river. Originally built in the 10th century, the château has undergone various transformations and now houses the Musée de la Cavalerie (Museum of the Cavalry) and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts).
Military Heritage: Saumur has a long military history and is home to the École de Cavalerie, a prestigious French cavalry school. The town is known as the "City of the Horse" because of its equestrian traditions.
World War II: During WWII, Saumur played a role in the resistance efforts, and its bridge over the Loire was a focal point during the Battle of Saumur in 1940.
Wine Production
Saumur is renowned for its wine production, particularly its sparkling wines known as Saumur Brut, made using the traditional method (similar to Champagne). The region also produces red, white, and rosé wines, with Saumur-Champigny being one of the most famous red wines from the area.
The town is surrounded by vineyards, and many wine cellars are open for tours and tastings.
Cultural Attractions
Churches: Saumur is home to several impressive churches, including the Romanesque-style Église Saint-Pierreand the Gothic Église Saint-Nicolas.
Cadre Noir: This is the French National Riding School, located in Saumur, and is one of the most prestigious equestrian institutions in the world. The school is famous for its classical dressage performances.
Museums: Apart from the museums in the château, Saumur also has the Musée des Blindés, a tank museum with an extensive collection of armored vehicles, and the Musée du Champignon, dedicated to the region’s mushroom production.
Natural Beauty
Loire River: The Loire River adds to the natural beauty of Saumur, offering opportunities for river cruises, boating, and walking along its picturesque banks.
Caves: The region around Saumur is dotted with troglodyte caves, which were historically used as dwellings and are now often repurposed as restaurants, wine cellars, and galleries.
Events and Festivals
Saumur hosts various events throughout the year, including the Anjou Vélo Vintage (a vintage cycling event), Les Grandes Tablées du Saumur-Champigny (a wine and food festival), and equestrian shows by the Cadre Noir.
Gastronomy
The local cuisine is heavily influenced by the region’s agricultural products, including mushrooms, goat cheese, and, of course, wine. You can enjoy traditional dishes in many of the town's restaurants.
Saumur offers a mix of history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a delightful destination for visitors exploring the Loire Valley.