Starting in Nantes

Vélo Notes

A Sudden Return to Cycling

Getting back on the bike brought back old memories. Looking back at my Camino years, I recall the adventure of each stage—crossing paths with different groups, sharing meals, and riding together, only to get separated along the way. I once joined a fast-paced Spanish group full of energy, but I couldn’t keep up and lost track of them. Then, I met an easygoing group—two Italian couples and a couple from Madrid. We rode together through Burgos, León, and Palencia, enduring the peak of summer heat. Somehow, we drifted apart but reunited with elation in the heart of Santiago de Compostela.

The Camino del Norte was another story. I encountered a group of young cyclists in Oreo, just past San Sebastián. One of them, frustrated by the rough terrain, threw his bike in anger, only to later embrace the ride with joy. In Santiago, he triumphantly lifted his bike in the main plaza—a reminder of the agony, joy, and triumph that make bike touring unforgettable.

After a long hiatus, I thought my cycling days were over. With nowhere to store my bike, I let it go. But the urge to ride never really left. This year, it finally surged back—I couldn’t wait any longer. I set my sights on starting from Nantes, following the Loire River. Then, out of nowhere, a setback—fever, aches, and relentless coughing. COVID. Thankfully, I had a private room in a hostel where I isolated for five days. As soon as I felt better, I booked a flight to Nantes, determined to move forward.

Still coughing, I arrived in Nantes and set out to find a bike. Within two days, I was ready to ride. The moment I pedaled away, a feeling of pure freedom washed over me—so intense, I could have died happy right then and there. Then, something strange happened: my cough disappeared. Maybe it was the fresh air, or maybe the magic of the Loire. A friend had advised me to take it easy, but at that moment, nothing else mattered.

I didn’t know much about Nantes and, after just two nights, I couldn’t judge it. But I felt comfortable there, staying in a hotel near the main train station, with a park just steps away. It was the perfect place to begin again

Nantes (Nahn-t) is located in western France on the Loire River, is a city with significant historical, cultural, and economic importance.

Historical Significance

  1. Medieval and Renaissance History: Nantes has a rich history dating back to the Roman times and was an important city during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. The Château des Ducs de Bretagne (Castle of the Dukes of Brittany) is a major historical landmark that highlights the city's medieval heritage.

  2. Edict of Nantes: In 1598, King Henry IV of France issued the Edict of Nantes, granting substantial rights to the Huguenots (French Protestants) and ending the Wars of Religion in France. This edict was a significant step towards religious tolerance.

  3. Industrial Revolution: During the 18th and 19th centuries, Nantes became an industrial hub, particularly known for its shipbuilding industry and port activities.

Cultural Significance

  1. Arts and Literature: Nantes is the birthplace of the famous writer Jules Verne, known for his adventure novels such as "Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea" and "Around the World in Eighty Days." The city celebrates his legacy with the Musée Jules Verne and other tributes.

  2. Machines of the Isle of Nantes: This unique artistic and cultural project features large mechanical animals and structures inspired by Verne's works and Leonardo da Vinci's creations, attracting numerous visitors each year.

  3. Vibrant Arts Scene: Nantes boasts a thriving cultural scene with numerous museums, theaters, galleries, and music festivals. The annual "Le Voyage à Nantes" art event transforms the city into a giant open-air gallery.

Economic Significance

  1. Economic Hub: Today, Nantes is a significant economic center in western France, known for its diverse industries, including technology, healthcare, and manufacturing.

  2. Innovation and Education: The city is home to several universities and research institutions, fostering innovation and attracting students from across the globe.

  3. Sustainable Development: Nantes is recognized for its commitment to sustainable urban development and was named the European Green Capital in 2013. The city focuses on green spaces, public transportation, and environmentally friendly policies.

Geographical and Demographic Significance

  1. Strategic Location: Situated along the Loire River, Nantes serves as a key transportation and logistics hub, with its port playing a vital role in trade and commerce.

  2. Population and Growth: Nantes is one of France's fastest-growing cities, with a diverse and dynamic population contributing to its economic and cultural vibrancy.

Tourist Destination

  1. Architectural Landmarks: Visitors are drawn to Nantes for its historical architecture, including the Gothic Nantes Cathedral and the medieval Bouffay district.

  2. Green Spaces: The city is known for its numerous parks and gardens, such as the Jardin des Plantes, providing green oases within the urban landscape.

Overall, Nantes' historical legacy, cultural richness, economic vitality, and commitment to sustainability make it a significant and attractive city in France.

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